Your questions about automotive paint

Wize Guy answers:

paint thinner!!!! works better

Wize Guy answers:

Yep, but you probably won’t like the answer.

The first word is “preparation”. Wood surfaces must be sanded glass smooth. This means you start with 100 grit, then work up to 140, 180, 220, and 400. Then you take a =barely= damp cloth, wipe the wood down, allow it to dry completely and sand again with 220 and 400.

It is important to note here that paint does NOT fill scratches that you can see or feel.

The next word is “choice”. You’ll need to choose a good sandable primer- this can be regular automotive primer sealer sprayed on. At least 4 good coats, allow to dry at least 24 hours. At this point runs and drips are not too horrible.

Sand until smooth with 400 grit and apply acrylic lacquer. If you are using spray cans, Duplicolor is a brand of acrylic lacquer… do NOT use automotive enamel. If it is a base coat (like reflective silver) you just need to apply enough for full coverage. 2 coats is usually plenty. Wait at least 24 hours again.

Next, DO NOT SAND, but apply the color coats (again, just enough for full coverage) AND at least 12 to 15 coats of clear. Give 5 to 10 minutes between clear coats to allow it to set up. Allow to dry AT LEAST a week.

Then, using wet sandpaper and a sanding block on flat surfaces, level the surface with 600 grit (be careful not to sand through the clear), then wet sand with 800 grit, then wet sand with 1000 grit. Make sure to wipe off the “slurry” that builds up from sanding as you go through the grits.

Then, get some Maguires X-100 cleaner and swirl remover and follow the directions on the tube.

After all this time and work you’ll end up with a near-flawless finish.

Wize Guy answers:

I can’t say for sure that there is a difference. My best friend is a body man and painter, and I must say, a very good one. I have seen him paint wheels with regular car paint before. It holds up just fine, and looks great.

Besides that, He has painted engines before installing them with standard automotive paint and it does not burn off, peel or discolor, and it lasts longer than high heat engine paint.

If you are referring to spray paint from an aerosol can, there is a difference. Wheel paint is supposed to be more resistant to chemicals such as wheel cleaners, and hold up to heat from the brakes better than regular paint.

Wize Guy answers:

Red and green are opposing colors – when mixed, you get a crappy, dull, baby diarrhea color. I can’t imagine mixing green and magenta together.
Use the “Paint” program in Windows and paint some custom colors in adjacent blocks to see what you like best together for a two tone.

Wize Guy answers:

FYRE offers an initial Valid clue. I’ll just add my two cents.

Without knowing at all WHY you HAVE to use a paint that attacks Styro; I have a suggestion.

Among other things; I’ve been involved with theater as long as anything else, and have used WHITE/ Large cell foam, often; in dozens of various theatrical sculpted set pieces.

In doing so I connect with companies that sell in the specific situation you are asking about. These would be companies that sell to the theatrical Craft trades and venues.

FOAMCOAT,,,or FOMECOAT ??? are two products designed to seal Styro,,often over Cheese Cloth, both applied, usually brush coated, and the substance “hardens” but then allows nearly any base formulation to be painted over. I pay about $26 a gallon. It looks like ELMERS glue, but is likely a thinner consistency.

Obviously in any such project SAMPLE TESTING should be considered; and your notion to STICK with automotive, I want to assume is a very defined color/ glitter/ etc.

Steven Wolf